The Hunters' Lodge (bar, restaurant, and guest house) was the in the right place. It was only 6.7 miles from Shannon Airport, suitable for an early-evening flight, even if delayed. It was bang in the middle of Newmarket on Fergus and difficult to miss for the two arriving the following morning. And it was on our road out. At Eu.40 each for B&B it was also the most expensive accommodation of the trip.

Gareth and I (David) arrived at Prestwick with our boxed bikes two hours before the departure time of our Ryanair flight. It's best not to leave Mr O'Leary room to quibble. He's a hard man. The flights cost £40.36 return per person, including taxes, and another £30 return for each of the bikes.

The plane left on time (17.00) and arrived 15 minutes early at Shannon (due 18.10). As we approached the airport we could see the fields fringed with blooming hawthorn hedges. The land looked very flat, but it's all relative. On the ground and within three miles of the airport, we came upon a 'Steep hill' sign. To be frank, it was the only such sign we met with during the holiday, and it was far from being the steepest hill. What with the relief of the bikes arriving without incident and our assembling them without smearing any further daubs of oil or grease on our clothing, I didn't notice the hill.

There are tourist signposts like this in all the towns and villages. But if you plan on following something like the Mid Clare Way, buy a map. Many of the junctions out in the country are unsigned.